Identify the Scratch Type Before Starting
Run your fingernail across the scratch. If your nail does not catch, it is a surface-level scratch — clear coat or very top layer only. If your nail catches slightly, it is a paint-layer scratch. If your nail catches and you can feel a groove, it is a material-level scratch that goes into the PLA or vinyl itself.
Surface scratches can often be polished out completely. Paint-layer scratches need touch-up paint. Material-level scratches require filling and painting — at that point, refer to the chip repair guide for a better approach.
Step 1: Surface Scratch Removal (Clear Coat Only)
For PLA figures: apply a tiny amount of Novus #2 Fine Scratch Remover or regular white toothpaste (not gel) to a microfiber cloth. Rub in small circular motions over the scratch for 30 seconds. Wipe clean with a damp cloth. Repeat if the scratch is still visible — most surface scratches disappear in 1-2 rounds.
For vinyl figures: use Novus #2 the same way, or try a magic eraser (melamine foam) with very light pressure. Be extremely gentle — melamine foam is mildly abrasive and can remove paint if you press too hard. Test on the base of the figure first.
After removing the scratch, apply a thin coat of matte clear coat spray to the area from 12 inches away. This restores the protective layer you just polished through.
Step 2: Paint-Layer Scratch Repair
If the scratch has exposed the material underneath the paint, you need to touch up with matching paint. Clean the area with a barely damp cloth first. Let dry completely.
Match the color using acrylic model paint (Vallejo or Citadel have the widest color ranges). Apply paint with a size 0 brush, filling only the scratch — do not paint beyond its edges. Use a toothpick for very thin scratches. Apply in thin layers, letting each dry 15 minutes.
Once the paint matches the surrounding area, seal with matte clear coat. One light mist coat from 12 inches away is sufficient.
Step 3: Wet Sanding for Stubborn Scratches on PLA
For PLA figures with scratches that resist polishing, wet sanding is effective but requires care. Soak 1500-grit sandpaper in water for 10 minutes. Sand the scratch with light pressure, keeping the surface wet, using straight strokes along the scratch direction — never circular.
Follow with 2000-grit wet sanding in the same manner. Then polish with Novus #2 to restore sheen. This technique removes the scratch by leveling the surrounding surface down to the scratch depth — so it only works for shallow scratches where removing a tiny amount of material is acceptable.
When to Leave a Scratch Alone
Some scratches are better left than fixed. Tiny scratches visible only under direct light at specific angles will not be noticed during normal display. A bad repair attempt is always more visible than a minor original scratch.
Scratches on the back or underside of figures are generally not worth repairing unless you plan to resell. For display figures like Duck Bubu, Angel Bubu, Snow Wing Bubu, and Pink Fang Bubu, focus repair efforts on visible areas — the face, front body, and any eye-level detail.
If a scratch is deep enough that filling and repainting is required, honestly assess your skill level. A mismatched paint touch-up looks worse than the original scratch. Practice on a hidden area or a spare figure first.