Materials You Need Before You Start
Acrylic paints formulated for models or miniatures adhere to vinyl better than standard craft acrylics. Look for paints labeled as suitable for plastic or vinyl — they contain adhesion promoters that prevent the paint from peeling. A basic starter set of ten to twelve colors gives you enough mixing range to achieve most skin tones, pastels, and accent colors. White and black are the most-used colors; buy larger bottles of these.
Surface preparation materials are as important as paint. Fine-grit sandpaper (400 to 600 grit) for scuffing the surface, isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) for degreasing, and a plastic-compatible primer spray are the three essentials. Skipping any of these steps is the most common reason beginner customs fail — paint that hasn't bonded properly peels within weeks.
Brushes: a flat shader brush for base coats, a round detail brush (size 1 or 2) for fine lines and facial features, and a dry-brush (stiff, splayed bristles) for texture effects. A palette for mixing colors and a cup of water for brush cleaning complete the basic setup. Avoid buying cheap brushes — they shed bristles into your paint and create uneven strokes. Mid-range hobby brushes are worth the price.
Surface Preparation: The Step Most Beginners Skip
The factory finish on vinyl figures contains mold release agents and surface oils that prevent paint adhesion. Even if the surface looks clean, these invisible contaminants will cause paint to bead, streak, or peel. Begin every custom by washing the figure in warm soapy water, then wiping thoroughly with a cotton pad soaked in 90%+ isopropyl alcohol. Allow to dry completely — at least 30 minutes — before proceeding.
Lightly scuff the surface with 400-grit sandpaper using circular motions. You're not trying to remove material — just create micro-scratches that give the primer something to grip. The figure should look slightly dull and matte after sanding; if it still looks shiny, sand more. Wipe away all sanding dust with a clean, dry cloth before priming.
Apply two thin coats of plastic-compatible primer spray, allowing full drying time (check the can, typically 15-30 minutes) between coats. Thin coats are critical — thick primer obscures surface details and takes longer to dry fully. The figure should appear uniformly matte gray after priming. Any spots that look shiny or uneven need another light coat. Good primer is the difference between a custom that lasts years and one that chips within months.
Painting Techniques for Clean Results
Build color in thin layers rather than attempting to cover in one thick coat. Thin your paint with a small amount of water until it flows smoothly off the brush without beading — roughly the consistency of whole milk. Apply the first coat, allow it to dry completely (15-20 minutes), then apply a second coat. Three to four thin coats produce a smoother, more durable result than one thick coat and prevent the obscuring of surface details.
For the face — Labubu's most important feature — use reference photos of the figure you're replicating or designing. Paint the whites of the teeth first, then the gum line, then the lip shapes. Work from lightest to darkest colors when possible so dark colors don't contaminate light ones. Use a magnifying glass or phone camera to check fine detail work; small errors are much easier to spot through magnification.
Dry-brushing adds texture and dimension that makes customs look more professional. Load a stiff brush with paint, then wipe almost all paint off on a paper towel until the brush leaves only the faintest trace of color when stroked across paper. Apply this nearly-dry brush across raised surfaces (fur texture, ridges, seams) to deposit subtle color highlights that emphasize the sculpt's three-dimensionality. This technique is hard to learn from text — practice on scrap material first.
Sealing and Finishing Your Custom
Sealing protects your paintwork from chipping, scratching, and handling wear. A matte varnish spray (also called a matte sealer or flat coat) is the standard choice for customs — it protects the paint while preserving the matte finish that most collectors prefer. Apply two to three light coats in thin passes, just like the primer. Hold the can 25-30cm from the figure and keep it moving to prevent pooling.
Choose your finish deliberately: matte sealer for a soft, premium look; satin for a slight sheen that suggests vinyl's natural surface; gloss for eyes, teeth, or any element you want to appear wet or shiny. Many customs use multiple finishes — matte for the body, gloss for eyes — to create surface variation that adds realism. Apply different finishes with a brush rather than a spray if you're targeting small areas.
Allow sealer to cure for 24-48 hours before handling. Even when dry to the touch, sealers need time to fully harden. Handling too soon can leave fingerprints in the surface or cause the sealer to cloud. Store the finished figure in a cool, dry location away from direct sunlight — UV exposure yellows clear coats over time and fades pigments, even on sealed customs.